Plotting my paddle out plan for tomorrow. There is some NW swell and a lowish tide in the morning, so the beach breaks (at least in Venice) will likely be totally closed out. I’m thinking about heading to a spot that I haven’t surfed in about two years, but that handles NW swells well and isn’t on everyone’s radar. While not a secret spot by any means, it doesn’t usually draw a big crowd. I bet you wish I was going to tell you where this is, but I’m not. We’ll see…
Someone near and dear to me, the 3rd nerd, has finally launched his own blog after a long awaited arrival. I introduce to you the new emerging talent in the blogosphere, Paddle Face!
Another dreary, gloomy day. Surf this morning looked total crapsauce at the pier. Not at all interested in surfing Venice this week. But….I think I’ve found my next surf travel destination.
Some guys I know just came back and sent me their pictures to drool over.
You prefer a right or a left?
They surfed this peak by themselves (four guys) for several days. Argh. So not fair.
I wondered this morning as a peered out the window at the foggy, gloomy morning if I will ever be able to get myself up and out of bed before work for a quick session now that winter is upon us, or if I am truly destined to be merely a poorly weekend warrior from now til spring? This time last year I had just had my shoulder surgery (happy one year anniversary to me!) so I was out of the water for all of December, January and February anyhow so it wasn’t a question or issue. Now, I feel sad by the idea of only being able to surf once or twice a week, and yet I seriously doubt I will be able to pull myself from the warmth of my bed to stumble down to the beach in the cold, dreary, pre-dawn morning for a quick session. Oh the drama of it all…
On another note, i just learned that my ex’s father just lost one of his eyes to ocular cancer. Now that’s drama. Shit.
A tale of two swells. Thursday, Friday and Saturday in Venice were quite good. Shape was decent with some fun, peaky waves in the waist to chest high size, if not just a bit inconsistent. I will confess, however, that I did not paddle out on Thanksgiving Day because I was still a bit sick and I was, ahem, just a bit hung over. So much for that tradition. But whatever I missed on Turkey Day I made up for on Friday and Saturday. Had a great time surfing both days with good friends and really enjoyed being out in Venice.
Then the new swell hit on Sunday and Venice was terrible. TERRIBLE I say. Absolutely closed out with no shoulders to speak of. Water was dirty. It was foggy and gross and shape was as bad as it gets in Venice. This swell direction was not kind at all to Venice. I heard that Porto was also totally closed out. I did hear, though, that the PV Cove was going off with sets up to 12ft and good shape. So, there were good waves to be had out there with the swell that hit on Sunday, just not in Venice.
All in all, though, a good weekend for surf. Back to work. Back to the grind.
Blogging is kind of like a drug addiction – just when you think you can’t do this anymore and you have to give it, walk away, take a break because life gets in the way, or it gets “complicated” or it has worn you out, it has this strange pull that draws you back. Whatever it was that made you want to express your thoughts and experiences in this way keeps creeping back, and just when you think you have no more to say, you are tapped out, dried up and regurgitating the same material over and over and you finally walk away, well, it never really is over.
Why do I bring this up? Because I have discovered that a former blogger with a rad site and very witty posts (far more entertaining than my banalities) is back. After a long hiatus, he has started blogging again, much to my enjoyment. I, too, took a break for a few months and then came creeping back for more. It’s the nature of blogging. It’s the addiction. It’s the love/hate of it all. And I’ve seen it time and time again – bloggers who I diligently follow for daily fodder finally throw in the towel and sign off. Yet more often than not, they do come back. I am very happy to see this blogger posting again.
Oh, and I guess because it is raining, surf is on hold. Hmmm…
Despite my determined will to be better so that I could paddle out this weekend, alas, I am not and did not….paddle out this weekend that is. I spent the entire weekend in bed. How rad is that? Well, I am still determined to paddle out on Thanksgiving morning because that is tradition. It is supposed to rain on Tuesday, but I just came from the doctor and got a bunch of antibiotics, so I should be all good to paddle out in the urban run off. Why not? Why the fuck not!