November 26, 2008
Blogging is kind of like a drug addiction – just when you think you can’t do this anymore and you have to give it, walk away, take a break because life gets in the way, or it gets “complicated” or it has worn you out, it has this strange pull that draws you back. Whatever it was that made you want to express your thoughts and experiences in this way keeps creeping back, and just when you think you have no more to say, you are tapped out, dried up and regurgitating the same material over and over and you finally walk away, well, it never really is over.
Why do I bring this up? Because I have discovered that a former blogger with a rad site and very witty posts (far more entertaining than my banalities) is back. After a long hiatus, he has started blogging again, much to my enjoyment. I, too, took a break for a few months and then came creeping back for more. It’s the nature of blogging. It’s the addiction. It’s the love/hate of it all. And I’ve seen it time and time again – bloggers who I diligently follow for daily fodder finally throw in the towel and sign off. Yet more often than not, they do come back. I am very happy to see this blogger posting again.
Oh, and I guess because it is raining, surf is on hold. Hmmm…
November 24, 2008
Despite my determined will to be better so that I could paddle out this weekend, alas, I am not and did not….paddle out this weekend that is. I spent the entire weekend in bed. How rad is that? Well, I am still determined to paddle out on Thanksgiving morning because that is tradition. It is supposed to rain on Tuesday, but I just came from the doctor and got a bunch of antibiotics, so I should be all good to paddle out in the urban run off. Why not? Why the fuck not!
November 21, 2008
Small but beautiful morning. Felt amazing to breathe in the morning (qualified) fresh air at the beach. Hmmm. I’ve missed the water. Maybe tomorrow. Yes, definitely tomorrow. Nomats.
November 20, 2008
I know, I know. I have been a bit remiss about blogging this week. I have been sick and, well, blogging and being sick ne s’entendent pas tres bien ensemble. I just haven’t felt anything worthy of writing about. Cobwebs in my brain. I haven’t surfed in forever. I feel weak and wimpish now. Hope to be able to surf this weekend. We’ll see. Good news is that the tattoo is almost completely healed and looks great.
November 14, 2008
Looks like it is going to be a golden weekend for surf. Weather is spectacular, some swell is in the forecast and there should be some good offshore winds as well. Could be epic. Unfortunately, I still can’t paddle out because of the tattoo (it is in the scab and peel phase of healing), so rather than torture myself, I am heading out of town for the weekend. I figure if I put enough distance between me and the ocean, then I’ll avoid the temptation to paddle out. I remember a few years ago when I had just got a tattoo, I was skating along the boardwalk in the morning and Venice was going off….one of those rare, perfect, peaky, offshore days that Venice sees only a few times a year. I ended up skating home and grabbing my board to paddle out even though it was still too soon after getting the tattoo. I just couldn’t pass it up. Fortunately, the tattoo healed without incident, but I don’t want to risk it.
Sad to miss surf this weekend, but there will always be more waves.
November 12, 2008
Another beautiful morning in Venice. Unfortunately, the shape was, once again, less than desirable after two days of what I heard was really good surf in Venice. The bottom is all jacked up and the sandbars are screwy. There is a lagoon from the high tide and then a steep slope causing alot of back suck and bump. Still, Erin paddled out for about 45 minutes while I played house photographer since I can’t paddle out this week.
She did the best she could with the sketchy shape. Made a few good drops.
Had a decent right here and decided to end on a positive.
And a little local Venice color to brighten up your morning.
November 11, 2008
I did a quick surf check this morning and it looked really good at the pier. Beautiful morning, offshore winds, head high waves and decent shape. The high tide was starting to slow things down and create a bounce, but there were alot of people in the water. And it should only get better later this week. It is supposed to get warmer and surf is supposed to jump up in size. Of course I can’t surf this week! Of course! Because of the new tattoo, I have to stay out of the water for at least a week to avoid any chance of infection. Of course! My timing is impeccable.
Realized I didn’t give a proper shout-out to my tattoo artist, John Saletra, so thought I would throw up this picture of us post-needling.
I heart John so much. He is amazing. His color work is beyond beautiful, and his artistry is so very personal. It is only because of him that I continue to get tattoos. I trust him implicitely.
So, enjoy the surf this week and catch some fun ones for me.