Ton o’ fun. Surf was great. Probably NOT in Venice but thankfully, I didn’t even look! Went down to Bolsa on Saturday and had a great time. Surf was head high and generally really good shape. We paddled out right at high tide and waves were breaking kind of soft, so it took awhile to get into a groove. But eventually I found a rhythm and caught a handful of really good, long waves. There were lulls in between the sets and the current was running very strong, so it was impossible to stay in position. Constant paddling. About halfway into the session, I caught a really long left all the way to shore and stepped off the board and onto the sand to get out and walk back down the beach. Paddled out near the rivermouth and in less than five minutes had drifted back up the beach. Still, awesome session.
Went up to surf Malibu second point with BP on Sunday morning (nerd #1 went to Yoga), and we had another fun session. Sets were still about head high although the lulls in between were longer. BP said he caught more waves at Malibu than at Bolsa, but I had more waves on Saturday. This was his first time surfing the ‘bu so he had a good time. After about an hour-an-half, we drifted from second point down into the pack of longboarders at first point. It was typically crowded there. We each caught one wave in and called it.
Weather was perfect. Water temp still not too cold. All in all a very good weekend. I love surfing!!!!