What a weekend.

Ton o’ fun. Surf was great.  Probably NOT in Venice but thankfully, I didn’t even look!  Went down to Bolsa on Saturday and had a great time.  Surf was head high and generally really good shape.  We paddled out right at high tide and waves were breaking kind of soft, so it took awhile to get into a groove. But eventually I found a rhythm and caught a handful of really good, long waves. There were lulls in between the sets and the current was running very strong, so it was impossible to stay in position.  Constant paddling.  About halfway into the session, I caught a really long left all the way to shore and stepped off the board and onto the sand to get out and walk back down the beach.  Paddled out near the rivermouth and in less than five minutes had drifted back up the beach.  Still, awesome session.

Went up to surf Malibu second point with BP on Sunday morning (nerd #1 went to Yoga), and we had another fun session. Sets were still about head high although the lulls in between were longer.  BP said he caught more waves at Malibu than at Bolsa, but I had more waves on Saturday. This was his first time surfing the ‘bu so he had a good time. After about an hour-an-half, we drifted from second point down into the pack of longboarders at first point.  It was typically crowded there.  We each caught one wave in and called it.

Weather was perfect. Water temp still not too cold.  All in all a very good weekend.  I love surfing!!!!

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3 Responses to What a weekend.

  1. Christian says:

    It’s good to see you stoked again. 🙂

  2. surfsister says:

    Bolsa is one of my favorite breaks. I went there one 4th of July when the waves were fantastic . . . and so was the current. I finally got tired of fighting it because I thought it better to use my strength for the waves. Well, believe it or not, it took us—as I was with Grace from the home break—half an hour to walk back to where we’d parked. That’s how are we’d drifted! But, it was worth it.

  3. Yeah, the constant paddling was exhausting. We kept trying to line up with the one of the life guard stations because that was where one of the really good peaks was working, but we Just couldn’t stay in position. I could see exactly where I wanted to sit, but literally couldn’t get there no matter how hard I tried to paddle. Good thing there were other peaks up and down the beach that were working. 🙂

    Glad you had fun at San O. Yay Surfing!

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