Paddled out at VBW this moring. Fucking crap. Fucking CROWDED crap. Fucking crowded close out crap. Even the beautiful morning could not save the session. And I surfed the fish despite my recent declarations of the board being crappy for steep close out conditions. Well just in case there might have been any doubt to my assessment of that board, I reconfirmed definitively that the board sucks in steep, close out conditions. I nose-dived almost every wave I caught (three) except for one.
I hate surfing. And I hate Venice. I think I’m boycotting Venice until the NW swells show up. How many fucking walls of water can one girl look over before she loses her mind? Really.