Despite forecasts for terrible surf conditions this past weekend, I atually ended up having two really fun sessions. Really fun! Paddled out at El Porto both mornings to small crumbly waves, and ended up having a blast. On Saturday, went out with nerds #1 and #2 on my regular thruster shortboard. It looked like total crap from the beach – onshore winds, mushy, textured, small waves. We talked ourselves into going just for the paddle, and once we were out, we all caught a bunch of fun little waves with many that held up with decent shoulders. I felt like I was back in a groove and definitely prefer surfing small mushy waves to steep close out waves. We all had way more fun than we expected.
Talked Erin into going back to Porto on Sunday morning, although I was very careful to downplay how fun the session was because I didn’t want to oversell it (I’ve been known to be a bit too enthusiastic once or twice in my life). Decided to bring my 6’0″ retro twin fin fish out because that board is perfect for small mushy waves. Perfect. And thankfully, the conditions were still fun and surfable. We both caught a bunch of waves and switched up surfing the fish. Erin had one really good left on the fish where it held up really nicely and she surfed it so smoothly and fluidly. Her turns were just so smooth – like Donovan Frankenreiter rather than, say, Andy Irons. Well she paddled back out with the hugest grin on her face so it felt as good to her as it looked to me. I love seeing my friends get a good wave like that and see their surf stoke on their face when they paddle back out to the line up.
That little fish is so awesome in the right conditions. It is fat and skaty and super responsive. You just have to “look” in the direction you want to go and it responds. But it has no rocker in the nose so it is a very hard board to ride in steeper waves. Much like a longboard, on a steeper drop, you have to angle it hard down the face or it will nose-dive at the bottom of the drop. But on a mushy, soft wave, it is like, hmmmm, butter. So smooth and sexy feeling.
Anyhow, I definitely feel like I got my groove back this weekend post Fiji and am loving surfing again.