Met up this morning with Erin for my first surf since being back.  Pulled on a wetsuit, dragged myself down to the pier, paddled out in cold water.  One word.  Crap.  Close-out crap. There were a couple of guys getting rides on the north side of the pier on the first peak, but the rest of the beach was pretty much close-out city.  Also, the recent swell dredged up a bunch of seaweed that was all churned up on the inside, so with every duck dive, you came up with a pound of seaweed in your face and dragging on your leash.  Oh to be back.


2 Responses to Ugh.

  1. British Paul says:

    Post holiday blues?! Glad you had a good time.. Pics look great! See you next week?

  2. Yes. Next week. Hopefully the local surf will turn good soon.

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