I’m baaaack.

Yes, it was beyond amazing. Surf was generally very big and when I tried to ride my shortboard, I was getting absolutely hammered on the inside reef.  For every wave I would catch, I would take about 6 set waves on the head.  Heavy, heavy waves.  I would duck dive and get sucked backwards 10 feet when coming up on the other side (or better yet, get tossed head over heels into the shallow reef).  So, I borrowed some longboards so that I could sit on the outside and get into the waves earlier, or scrape to the channel when the set waves would come up.  I had my heart in my throat every session.  Adrenaline pumping.  Scared surfing the entire time.  But I loved it.  Lesson learned?  Bring a bigger board – like a 7’2″ or 7’6″ would be have been better.  Couple of pictures with more to follow.

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4 Responses to I’m baaaack.

  1. Christian says:

    That water is soooo clear! I’m glad you had a great trip. 🙂

  2. Yes. It was so clear. Surfing over reef and pretty fish is awesome, but kind of trippy…saw a few reef shark too! It’s really hard to judge how deep it is though. It gets really shallow on the inside and if you don’t kick out soon enough, you end up in about two feet of water with sharp reef underneath.

  3. whiffleboy says:

    Awesome! Would you say you progressed as a surfer putting yourself above your comfort level like that every day?

  4. hmm. hard to say? on the one hand, I grew as a surfer because I’ve never surfed such heavy, thick, powerful waves like that…not just wave size but the power of the wave is so much heavier than anything I’ve ever surfed – and I’ve surfed mexico, hawaii and even Blacks. And being on the shallow reef made it so critical. I actually didn’t surf technically that well in terms of turns, snaps, cut-backs etc. But pushing myself beyond my comfort level should give me more confidence in other conditions.

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