Changes in the air.

October 31, 2008

Could it be? Could we see some NW swell in the water this weekend?  Could Venice start to not totally suck everyday, day after day?  There is a little “system” moving through this weekend which could bring some good waves.  Trick is to find the window before too much rain and runoff ruin things.

On another note, just got word from a friend in Mammoth that snow is also on the way and they may open the mountain early?  Ooooh. Snowboard season is upon us, too.   I love sideways sports!


Beautiful day.

October 29, 2008

Still boycotting Venice, but it was such a beautiful morning that I decided to grab my skateboard instead and go for a skate. Awesome.  Love me some skating along the boardwalk in the early morning. The air is fresh and cool, and it just feels so good to carve it up. Did a surf check and, actually, it didn’t totally suck.  It was pretty small – about 2-3 foot – and the shape was kinda ok.  Not good by any means, but I saw some corners.  Hmmm.  May rethink the boycott.   Only maybe.

What a weekend.

October 27, 2008

Ton o’ fun. Surf was great.  Probably NOT in Venice but thankfully, I didn’t even look!  Went down to Bolsa on Saturday and had a great time.  Surf was head high and generally really good shape.  We paddled out right at high tide and waves were breaking kind of soft, so it took awhile to get into a groove. But eventually I found a rhythm and caught a handful of really good, long waves. There were lulls in between the sets and the current was running very strong, so it was impossible to stay in position.  Constant paddling.  About halfway into the session, I caught a really long left all the way to shore and stepped off the board and onto the sand to get out and walk back down the beach.  Paddled out near the rivermouth and in less than five minutes had drifted back up the beach.  Still, awesome session.

Went up to surf Malibu second point with BP on Sunday morning (nerd #1 went to Yoga), and we had another fun session. Sets were still about head high although the lulls in between were longer.  BP said he caught more waves at Malibu than at Bolsa, but I had more waves on Saturday. This was his first time surfing the ‘bu so he had a good time. After about an hour-an-half, we drifted from second point down into the pack of longboarders at first point.  It was typically crowded there.  We each caught one wave in and called it.

Weather was perfect. Water temp still not too cold.  All in all a very good weekend.  I love surfing!!!!


October 24, 2008

Thank God it’s almost the weekend.  Definitely need to get away for a good surf.  Should be a really fun weekend for surf.  Heading south.  Still boycotting Venice.


October 22, 2008

Paddled out at VBW this moring.  Fucking crap.  Fucking CROWDED crap.  Fucking crowded close out crap.  Even the beautiful morning could not save the session.  And I surfed the fish despite my recent declarations of the board being crappy for steep close out conditions.  Well just in case there might have been any doubt to my assessment of that board, I reconfirmed definitively that the board sucks in steep, close out conditions.  I nose-dived almost every wave I caught (three) except for one.

I hate surfing.  And I hate Venice.  I think I’m boycotting Venice until the NW swells show up.  How many fucking walls of water can one girl look over before she loses her mind?  Really.

Conflict of Interest?

October 21, 2008

BP (aka nerd #2) is here now and he’s blogging about surf in Venice.  Hmmm.  Not sure how I feel about this turn of events.  He assures me that there will be no competition, but I’m not entirely convinced that this isn’t a direct conflict of interest.  Look. He already posted about our surf session at El Porto on Saturday.  Is there really room for two Venice surf bloggers?  Oh I suppose it will be ok. Competition is good.  It will keep me honest.  And besides, I might retire (again) soon so there will be a back up blog to follow if I take a bow.  Besides, I’m the OG venicesurfergirl and he’s, well, British.  Totally different.  But I AM hoping for a dawnie tomorrow before work. 🙂

Pleasantly surprised.

October 20, 2008

Despite forecasts for terrible surf conditions this past weekend, I atually ended up having two really fun sessions.  Really fun! Paddled out at El Porto both mornings to small crumbly waves, and ended up having a blast.  On Saturday, went out with nerds #1 and #2 on my regular thruster shortboard.  It looked like total crap from the beach – onshore winds, mushy, textured, small waves. We talked ourselves into going just for the paddle, and once we were out, we all caught a bunch of fun little waves with many that held up with decent shoulders.  I felt like I was back in a groove and definitely prefer surfing small mushy waves to steep close out waves.  We all had way more fun than we expected.

Talked Erin into going back to Porto on Sunday morning, although I was very careful to downplay how fun the session was because I didn’t want to oversell it (I’ve been known to be a bit too enthusiastic once or twice in my life). Decided to bring my 6’0″ retro twin fin fish out because that board is perfect for small mushy waves. Perfect.  And thankfully, the conditions were still fun and surfable. We both caught a bunch of waves and switched up surfing the fish.  Erin had one really good left on the fish where it held up really nicely and she surfed it so smoothly and fluidly.  Her turns were just so smooth – like Donovan Frankenreiter rather than, say, Andy Irons.  Well she paddled back out with the hugest grin on her face so it felt as good to her as it looked to me.  I love seeing my friends get a good wave like that and see their surf stoke on their face when they paddle back out to the line up.

That little fish is so awesome in the right conditions.  It is fat and skaty and super responsive.  You just have to “look” in the direction you want to go and it responds.  But it has no rocker in the nose so it is a very hard board to ride in steeper waves. Much like a longboard, on a steeper drop, you have to angle it hard down the face or it will nose-dive at the bottom of the drop.  But on a mushy, soft wave, it is like, hmmmm, butter. So smooth and sexy feeling.

Anyhow, I definitely feel like I got my groove back this weekend post Fiji and am loving surfing again.