More emotional surfing this past weekend. Saturday I paddled out at the pier and had a terrible session. While it was very challenging conditions as my buddy, John, was trying to console me – head high + super fast, dumpy waves – there were guys making the drops and getting rides. I just plain sucked. I took out my high performance short board which I haven’t ridden in close to two years because I am bringing it with me to Fiji and wanted to try to ride it at least once before leaving. I just could not get dialed into that board. It has a very pulled in nose with alot of rocker (hence “high performance”) and I was having a really hard time paddling into the waves. It is also very squirrelly (hence “high performance) and I was having a really hard time popping up and landing the sweet spot. Just all and all very frustrating. I don’t really take much solace when someone tries to tell me “it was really hard out there today.” No. That doesn’t work for me because it wasn’t hard for say, Jamie Perez or Scott Anderson, who were out freakin’ getting shacked and throwing big spray off their turns. No. That doesn’t work for me.
I redeemed myself, however, on Sunday and had a really good session (or at least a decent session) at a point break up north. Ah, point breaks. Piece of cake. I brought out my usual board so was comfortable. There weren’t too many people out so I caught plenty of waves without any real hassles, and while the swell had dropped, there were still plenty of decent waist to chest high waves. I caught a few really long waves towards the end of my session where I worked the face and pumped through the sectiony part and connected to the inside. Fun. I didn’t suck.
Like I said, Bi-polar surfing. Do they have meds for that?