Much to cover this morning so stay with me, folks. Firstly, did a quick surf check this morning at the pier and it looked really fun. Really fun. Decent shape with little peaks up and down the beach. Sun was out and there were only a handful of guys out. Size is down (only about waist to chest high) which is helping the shape, and tide looked about right. Damn. Wish I had paddled out for a dawnie this morning.
But had lots of water time this weekend. Stayed local both days and had some fun sessions. Surfed the pier on Saturday morning and it was definitely about wave selection. Most were closing out, especially the bigger waves, but with a little patience, there were some quick corners on the smaller waves. Nothing great but surfed for about two hours and had alot of waves. Made a couple of biggish drops for fun on the close outs and just stayed low and went straight. Kind of like that feeling of having the wave smash behind you as you make the drop and then straighten out…
Surfed Santa Monica with Erin on Sunday and had another long, fun session. Again, hit and miss with the shape, but there were some shoulders on the smaller waves. We stayed out for over two hours in order to work up our appetites, because after surfing, we skated up to the Santa Monica pier to check out the BBQ Festival. It was freakin’ awesome. The best bbq restaurants in L.A. had booths set up in the parking lot next to the pier and each stand offered up a specialty dish – pork ribs, beef ribs, mac n’ cheese, brisket, baked beans, did I say mac n’ cheese already? Soooo good. We hung out there for a couple of hours feasting and drinking, and then skated back down the beach and jumped in the water again for a quick sponge session. Super fun day. Too bad the sun never came out really, but still a blast.
Now for the venting. What the fuck is up with the San Diego Chargers? Losing two games in a row with the opponent scoring game-winning touchdowns in the last seconds of the game. Fuuuuck. Can they get some fucking d on the field please. And what’s up with that bullshit bullshit bullshit call? Not a fumble? Motherfucker if that wasn’t a fumble. Excuse my language but a girl has to say what she feels, right?