I’m outty.

September 25, 2008


One word.

September 24, 2008



September 24, 2008

Wanna see what I’ve bookmarked this week that I check, like, every two hours?  Fiji weather update.  Hah!  Crazy thing is that the forecast shows pretty much the exact same temperature every day – high is 86 degrees and low is 66 degrees. I keep checking it because they update it every two hours, but it never really changes.  The low is actually a little lower than I expected, but is perfect for sleeping at night.  Water temp is around 82 degrees.  Ahhh.

Surf forecast – well, Surfline calls for modest SWW swell over the weekend (when I arrive) with a nice swell due to deliver head high + waves by the middle/end of next week – right when I’ll be in optimal reef break surfing shape.

Bought a pair of reef booties even though I loathe the idea of wearing them.  Everyone I’ve talked to, however, said I definitely want to have reef booties because depending on the tides, it can get very shallow on the inside and if you wipe out, you can get stuck standing on the reef and you don’t want to be standing on the reef barefoot.  Ok.  We’ll see if I end up wearing them.  They just won’t look very cute in pictures!

They’re back.

September 23, 2008

My beloved Chargers are back with a solid win over The Jets.  My beloved LT scored two touchdowns, and their d, while allowing 29 points, did put some fierce pressure on Farve and kept him scrambling and throwing interceptions. I wasn’t worried. Let’s not forget they started out last season 0-2 as well, and then came on strong with an AFC Championship finish. 

Bi-polar surfing.

September 22, 2008

More emotional surfing this past weekend.  Saturday I paddled out at the pier and had a terrible session. While it was very challenging conditions as my buddy, John, was trying to console me – head high + super fast, dumpy waves –  there were guys making the drops and getting rides. I just plain sucked. I took out my high performance short board which I haven’t ridden in close to two years because I am bringing it with me to Fiji and wanted to try to ride it at least once before leaving. I just could not get dialed into that board. It has a very pulled in nose with alot of rocker (hence “high performance”) and I was having a really hard time paddling into the waves.  It is also very squirrelly (hence “high performance) and I was having a really hard time popping up and landing the sweet spot.  Just all and all very frustrating.  I don’t really take much solace when someone tries to tell me “it was really hard out there today.”  No.  That doesn’t work for me because it wasn’t hard for say, Jamie Perez or Scott Anderson, who were out freakin’ getting shacked and throwing big spray off their turns. No.  That doesn’t work for me.

I redeemed myself, however, on Sunday and had a really good session (or at least a decent session) at a point break up north.  Ah, point breaks. Piece of cake. I brought out my usual board so was comfortable.  There weren’t too many people out so I caught plenty of waves without any real hassles, and while the swell had dropped, there were still plenty of decent waist to chest high waves.  I caught a few really long waves towards the end of my session where I worked the face and pumped through the sectiony part and connected to the inside.  Fun.  I didn’t suck.

Like I said,  Bi-polar surfing.  Do they have meds for that?

Emotionally spent.

September 19, 2008

Managed to get myself up and out of bed this morning for a surf. Paddled out at VBW and, well, it didn’t suck.  Set waves were in the head high + range and the shape was fair.  I got two pretty decent waves right off the bat when I paddled out.  I was feeling quite cocksure of myself at that point.  There were only about three guys out.  Then I slipped into kookville mode and proceeded to face-plant down the face on my next two waves.  Then the internal chatter started with the what the fuck is my problem this morning.  Then I let two good set waves go by. Then I popped up too early and missed the wave. By that point, I was ready to pull out a Morning Star (Medieval Weapon of Torture) to begin the self-flagellation you’re-not-worthy-to-call-yourself-a-surfer torture.  I was pretty much the only girl out in a pack of guys and I so wanted to rip hard.  Everytime I paddled for a wave, all eyes were on me.  But the harder I tried to rip, the more I sucked.  I wanted to say to each and every one of them, “You should have been here earlier. I had two good waves.  Really, I don’t totally suck.”  Then, the clock-ticking started as I looked at my watch and realized I needed to get out and get to work. Shit, shit, shit.  I started dreading the unthinkable – the paddle of shame where I would have to paddle in if I couldn’t catch one last fucking wave in.  I think I hate more than anything the paddle of shame.  It will take what might have otherwise been a good session and end it on such a downer.  Fortunately, I was able to avert the paddle of shame and managed to catch one last wave in to shore.  Whew.  For only a 1 hour and 15 minute session, I sure experienced a rollercoaster of emotions this morning.  I’m exhausted.

The pier this morning.

September 18, 2008

Did a quick surf check. There is still quite a bit of swell in the water, but shape was still questionable at the pier.  There were a handful of the usual suspects out trying to find a corner, but in the ten minutes or so that I was watching, I really didn’t see much of anything. Nice head high waves, but nowhere to go. Sun was out with no wind.  Nice morning.  The call is a familiar one – head north or head south.  There you have it.