Actually had really fun sessions both days this weekend. Paddled out locally on Saturday morning expecting so very little, and then was pleasantly surprised with some fun waist high, crossed up swell. The water was warm too, so I ended up surfing for close to two hours. Did not expect it, but had alot of fun. Went down to Bolsa Chica on Sunday and had a blast down there. Quite peaky with sets up to about shoulder-head high. A bit on the inconsistent side (such is the case with south swells), and as the tide filled in, became slower and mushier with some back-suck. Still, very fun and again, super warm water. We stayed out for about 2 1/2 hours. A great summer surf weekend.
Went with Nerd the 3rd to see the surf documentary Busting Down the Door last night. I’ve had my fill of surf films over the years and find they can be very repetitive and boring unless you are popping in a dvd to get pumped for a go-out. This film, however, is really good and tells the story of the evolution of the pro surf tour as it evolved on the North Shore in the mid 70’s. Not just a surf flick with sick surfing, but a compelling story that leads up to the face off between the local Da Hui surfers and the young ripper Aussies/South Africans who came to the North Shore to make their mark and try to create a true professional sport of surfing. Classic 70’s surfing footage, the requisite wipe-out sequences that causes every surfer to gasp, and well-narrated (by Ed Norton). If you have the chance to see this one in the theaters, it’s worth it, but hurry because it will likely disappear very soon.