Didn’t bother to get up this morning for a dawny. Dark, dreary and onshore winds. No thanks. I forgot to turn off my 5:30 am alarm, however, so had the iPod go off despite not wanting to get up to surf. Damn, I hate when that happens. Fortunately, I was able to roll over and quickly go back to sleep like it never happened. Had a very strange and vivid dream after that – I was at Horizon’s West Surf Shop and desperately wanted to buy a Scott Anderson “Massie” fish and they didn’t have any in stock. I kept pulling board after board out from their racks, and couldn’t find one that I wanted. I told Randy (the owner of Horizon’s West) that I was ready to buy two or three board on the spot if I could only find ones that I wanted. Nothing. It was a total stress dream. Really? About buying surfboards? At Horizon’s West? Hmmmm. Need to think about that one for a bit…
Surf sucked this morning, or rather I should say I sucked. Can’t blame it on the conditions really because they were more or less the same as yesterday, if not a bit bigger. I just sucked. I kept paddling for waves I couldn’t catch, I was late on the pop up, I missed waves with corners and caught close outs. I think I had two or three really good straights. Awesome!
Had a short but fun little session this morning in Venice, small being the operative word here. Waves were about 1 -3 foot, but had a little shape. Conditions were nice – glassy and water not too cold (maybe a couple of degrees colder than it’s been). I was out early enough to have access to a couple of peaks with only about five other people out for close to an hour. The crowds descended about 7:45 am, but by then I had had plenty of little (did I mention it was small) waves and was ready to get out.
I ran into a guy I know this morning at my local breakfast joint who has been to Namotu. I talked to him briefly about the breaks and his only recommendation is that I try to paddle as much as possible prior to going to get in really good paddle condition. He said that when there is a swell, there is a strong current so you have to paddle constantly to stay in position, and then the waves are so long, it is a very long paddle back to the line up. I’ve been trying to build up my strength but in doing so, have aggravated my bicep tendon (where I had surgery) and now have a bit of tendinitis going on. Shit. I got a treatment on it Saturday and I know I have to now rest it a bit, but I also need to build up strength. This trip is going to really let me know the state of affairs regarding the ultimate success of my shoulder surgery. So far, things have been good, but I fatigue easily and now it is sore. Sucks.
Happy to write that I once again love surfing. Had two very fun sessions this weekend and got my surf stoke back. Whew. That really was a bad spell there, but all is right with the universe again. Paddled out locally in Venice on Saturday morning and it was not by any means good, but it was surfable and I had a fun time. Caught a bunch of short dumpy waves, but managed to get a couple of turns in here and there, and just really enjoyed the water. On Sunday, did a little road trip up to Ventura with Nerd #1 and longboarded at C-Street. Sooo fun. C-Street is kind of like Sunset only with about 1/4 of the people and those who are out know how to surf. We were out for over two hours and both caught a ton of fun, waist-high waves with long rides. Long. I am totally out of my groove on my longboard and my cross stepping technique is so bad now, but I managed a few steps here and there, and on some of the bigger set waves, tried to slap my longboard around like I was on a shortboard. Annika was cracking up at me the entire time because she is so used to seeing me shortboard. Fun times. Ventura is awesome. And while we did wear fullsuits, the water was not that cold. I expected much colder up north. Not bad at all.
I got up for a dawn patrol this morning and drove down to El Porto thinking it must be marginally better than Venice. Right? Wrong! It was not surfable.
Here is a beautiful shot from my cell phone. 2 – 3 foot waves breaking on about 1 foot of water. There were actually alot of people suiting up in the parking lot to paddle out and I was amazed because I did not see one ridable wave. I really did try to give it a chance. Hell, I was already up and down there. I stood in the parking lot for 1/2 hour and told myself if I saw anything I could possibly ride, I would paddle out. Nope. Nothing. Please, put me out of my misery.
And they win gold!
Plus, I have to throw in a shot of Hope Solo in action…
Not the first to blog about this, but hell, how could I not jump on the bandwagon and post this picture?
The man (our future President) has some serious body surfing style points going on here. Rock on Obama! More pictures here from The Huffington Post.