I did it.

I booked my trip for Namotu. Years in the making. Finally just decided to stop talking about it and just do it. One week on an island of 20 surfers max, three gourmet meals per day, five world-class surf breaks with boats and surf guides running all day long, white sand beaches, pool, snorkeling, lounging, drinking = heaven. So now I am in “training.” As a friend said, I need to grab a big rock and start underwater running. Well, I just need to try to surf and paddle as much as possible over the next two months (leave at the end of September). I am also going to try to do few trips down to Blacks over the next month or so because that is a good wave and a good place to practice backside barrels (I’m regular foot).

As for surfing this past weekend – not very good. Saturday at Porto saw some head high waves but with poor shape. Sunday at Porto was absolute shite. Size dropped to knee – waist high and even worse shape. I just told myself that I needed to be out there paddling.

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