Our fickle spot delivered.

Hope you got some this weekend, because there were good waves to be had. Made plans to meet up with longtime surf buddy, Erin, on Saturday not really knowing exactly where we wanted to go. Report was south swell low tide, so we knew our local spots were not going to be option. After a brief discussion, we decided to head up north to check out Zuma. Zuma can be fun on a south swell medium tide, so we thought maybe…

As we were driving up the coast, every point break was firing – from Sunset, Topanga and the ‘bu – all had really fun looking waves, and of course a million people on it. Even sketchy Chart House looked like it was working? Should we stop? Should we stop? No, no, let’s just keep going up to Zuma.

As we were coming down the hill to Zuma, however, there was a paramedic truck that went screaming by us and turned onto the Westward Beach road, and Erin joked that someone probably broke their back. But as we were cruising along PCH, it became suspiciously apparent that no one was out? Then we saw a fairly big head high plus wave-crashing close out and thought hmmm? Maybe not? Then we saw another paramedic truck and fire truck in the parking lot down the beach. Uh oh? Something is not right. We scanned the entire length of the beach and there was no one out. Shark? Something. So it was pretty clear that Zuma was not the place to paddle out…especially on a day like Saturday where it was a million degrees and if it had been even remotely surfable, there would have been people out. Plan B? Secret spot farther up the coast.

Secret spot is a fickle lady. She only really is good in a very particular window of tide and swell. There has to be enough swell to break, and the right tide or it flattens out. But hey, we have had some pretty awesome sessions there in the past, so why not. The potential was there. And sure enough, when we pulled up, she was firing. Absolutely beautiful, with not too many people out. We scrambled out of the car into our wetsuits and went running and skipping down to the beach in about “30 seconds. We didn’t even take any time to do any pre-surf stretching due diligence (then again, do we ever?)…

The long and the short of it was the session was a blast. We were the only two girls out, but we each caught a bunch of waves and had a ton of fun. Water was cool but because of the heat, felt great. Drops were head high and shoulders held up. Erin had a wave of the day where she got a nice set wave, called several guys off and had the face really open up where she raced down the line, got a few turns in and finished with a nice floater landing in white water. And the best, every other guy in the line up was watching and complimented her on the ride. Yes, it is satisfying when the girls show up and skool the boys – I will admit that 🙂

I love surfing. Right?


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