Hi. Remember me? Well I’ve decided it’s time to start blogging again. Here’s the problem though. I was out surfing this morning with nerd #1 and she asked me when am I going to start blogging again, and I realized that now that I am back surfing a ton (post-surgery), I’ve lost my motivation to blog. While I was injured and not surfing (or surfing very little), it was this blog that kept me connected to surfing. I felt compelled to do surf check and write about it. I couldn’t actually paddle out, but at least I was in the mix. Now, I am paddling out 4 – 5 days a week and feeling really good, so I don’t need to write about it. I’m just doing it.
So I am going to make an effort again to start posting and see how far I go with it. It will probably be less frequent than before, but we’ll see.
Surf conditions this morning at the pier – very fun but kinda ugly if you know what I mean. Because of the low tide, shoulders were few and fast. Caught a bunch of dumpy waves but didn’t get much face time on any of them. Nerd #1 and I were surfing next to a really good surfer who kept making it look really easy. I hate those guys. He was getting into everything and finding shoulders. Me, I kept popping up and getting behind the whitewater or just plain old getting tossed. Nerd? Well she was feeling a bit lazy this morning and didn’t really paddle for much. But boy did she look cute just sitting out there yawning….
I have to start blogging again for her, though, because she is going to England soon to see Nerd #2 (BP) and will need updates from Venice. That’s my story. Very non-committal, but that seems to be a pattern in my life these days. Don’t get too attached. “I’m just into have sex. Not into making love…”