Surfing this past weekend (for BP and AK).

June 30, 2008

Just ok. Paddled out at Porto on Saturday morning. There was already onshore winds kind of junking it up. Shape was pretty poor and waves were only in the waist to chest high size. I caught a bunch of stoopid waves that left me feeling very unsatisfied. There was also a very big backwash from the outgoing tide that caused alot of bounce? I got launched several times after the drop… I just wanted to get some shoulders to work with, but never really got any decent turns in.

Sunday I did a check at the pier, and again, the onshore winds were already blowing and there was some SSW swell, so everything looked chunky and closed out. I was not in the mood for crappy Venice suicide barrels, so decided to drive up PCH to see what else was going on. Mostly because I was feeling lazy and didn’t want to drive, I ended up at Sunset. It was high tide (not a high high tide though) so alot of waves weren’t breaking and, again, there was a bounce coming back off the rocks. And I was on my shortboard surrounded by all longboarders (I know, it’s Sunset – I wasn’t really planning on surfing there), so that also kind of put me at a disadvantage. Still, I did get a handful of ok waves that held up for a few turns. At least I didn’t get my ass handed to me (like I would have in Venice).


Paddled out at the pier.

June 27, 2008

Eh…met up for a quick surf with Erin this morning before work. It was, once again, pretty sketch. Erin caught a bunch of waves, but as she said to me after about her fifth wave, she had yet to see any face time. Likewise, I never got any face to work with…just a handful of close outs. Ah, Venice in the summer.

So Erin is this ridiculously insane Star Wars nerd. She knows everything there is to know about every single film, has seen them all a million times, and is fluent in Yoda-speak. Me? Not so much. If she makes a reference to the dark side or a death star, I kind of know what she’s talking about, but beyond that, I’m useless. She just moved recently into the neighborhood, and I think I’ve just found her the perfect housewarming present:

Isn’t this rad? I’m going to get it framed for her to hang right over her bed. Yes, I am that kind of friend.

Venice Pier this morning @ 8:30 am

June 26, 2008

Once again there is a serious lack of water in Venice, but there were still some ok waist high waves coming off the peak at the pier this morning. That one peak looked decent, but the rest of the beach (both north and south side) looked pretty dumpy. There was some onshore bump going on too, but not too bad. Damn Catalina Eddies!

So this guy standing on the pier who recognized me started talking to me with the saddest story. He told me his 18 year-old-son just died a week ago and they were going to be doing a paddle out for him this weekend. I kind of assumed it was an o.d. or drunk driving accident (that’s what I think of when I hear about an 18 year-old dying) but when I finally asked how he died, he said he was a car fanatic and just got a new car, was working on it (underneath it) in his girlfriend’s garage up on blocks, and the car somehow fell on him and crushed him. How sad (and random) is that? Wow. So sad. Can’t imagine being a parent and losing a child so young. Then again, I can’t even imagine being a parent at this point.

Venice Breakwater

June 24, 2008

Paddled out today at VBW….there wasn’t any skooling going on this morning. Surf was waist high, low tide and dumpy. There were a few corners but I didn’t catch much of anything to write about. Caught a couple of fast dumpy waves with nowhere to go, went over the falls and landed on my ass in two feet of water – awesome. At least the water is warm.

Met up for drinks last night with nerd #3. He’s been MIA because he was down in SD for ten days working. He said he paddled out a couple of times and went body surfing a bunch. We were talking about how warm the water is now (especially in SD) and that you almost don’t need a wetsuit. He said he can’t wait to paddle out with me with no wetsuit so that when I drop in on him, he can see my ass in just a bikini bottom. How can I not love a guy who let’s me drop in on him and loves it 🙂 He’s going to be getting his blog on soon – paddleface – so stay tuned. I’ll definitely be giving him some link love.

Our fickle spot delivered.

June 23, 2008

Hope you got some this weekend, because there were good waves to be had. Made plans to meet up with longtime surf buddy, Erin, on Saturday not really knowing exactly where we wanted to go. Report was south swell low tide, so we knew our local spots were not going to be option. After a brief discussion, we decided to head up north to check out Zuma. Zuma can be fun on a south swell medium tide, so we thought maybe…

As we were driving up the coast, every point break was firing – from Sunset, Topanga and the ‘bu – all had really fun looking waves, and of course a million people on it. Even sketchy Chart House looked like it was working? Should we stop? Should we stop? No, no, let’s just keep going up to Zuma.

As we were coming down the hill to Zuma, however, there was a paramedic truck that went screaming by us and turned onto the Westward Beach road, and Erin joked that someone probably broke their back. But as we were cruising along PCH, it became suspiciously apparent that no one was out? Then we saw a fairly big head high plus wave-crashing close out and thought hmmm? Maybe not? Then we saw another paramedic truck and fire truck in the parking lot down the beach. Uh oh? Something is not right. We scanned the entire length of the beach and there was no one out. Shark? Something. So it was pretty clear that Zuma was not the place to paddle out…especially on a day like Saturday where it was a million degrees and if it had been even remotely surfable, there would have been people out. Plan B? Secret spot farther up the coast.

Secret spot is a fickle lady. She only really is good in a very particular window of tide and swell. There has to be enough swell to break, and the right tide or it flattens out. But hey, we have had some pretty awesome sessions there in the past, so why not. The potential was there. And sure enough, when we pulled up, she was firing. Absolutely beautiful, with not too many people out. We scrambled out of the car into our wetsuits and went running and skipping down to the beach in about “30 seconds. We didn’t even take any time to do any pre-surf stretching due diligence (then again, do we ever?)…

The long and the short of it was the session was a blast. We were the only two girls out, but we each caught a bunch of waves and had a ton of fun. Water was cool but because of the heat, felt great. Drops were head high and shoulders held up. Erin had a wave of the day where she got a nice set wave, called several guys off and had the face really open up where she raced down the line, got a few turns in and finished with a nice floater landing in white water. And the best, every other guy in the line up was watching and complimented her on the ride. Yes, it is satisfying when the girls show up and skool the boys – I will admit that 🙂

I love surfing. Right?

For all the wannabe surfer girls.

June 19, 2008

It’s summer. It’s hot. Everyone wants to learn to surf. For all you city girls who think it will be soooo fuuuun to surf and meet cute guys, here is your chance: surf day in Manhattan Beach!

Join dozens of Sex In The City Girls with their favorite Kate Spade summer tote at this all female weekend surf camp.

In all seriousness, it is highly recommended to take a few surf lessons before trying to paddle out into the line up and learn to surf. You really should know some basic safety and surf etiquette to understand the rules of the line up, how to manage your board, how not to hurt other surfers (what you do to yourself is your own problem), and general paddling technique.

Surfing is very hard. It takes alot of practice. Summer is when everyone wants to try surfing. It gets very crowded. Take some lessons. Practice away from the crowds. Have patience.

Surfing in France by the weekend.

June 18, 2008

Dropped nerd #1 off at the airport last night to put her on a plane bound for England.  Just got a text that she’s arrived safely.  She and BP will be surfing in France by the weekend provided there are waves.  They are driving there from Londontown on Friday in his little euro surf van.   How adorable is that?  Ahhh.  I miss her already.

Surf in Venice this week has generally been sketch.  South swell close outs.  Head north or south.