Went “surfing” this weekend!

Met up with nerd #1 and paddled out for the first time since surgery!


The good news? I was totally pain free. The bad news? My confidence is in the tanks. I paddled out on Saturday and felt very timid and scared. It wasn’t even very big but there were a few set waves in the head high + range that came through, and of course I got totally worked trying to duck dive under one of them. I was able to duck dive completely pain free which was great, but I was also nervous and hesitant the entire time I was out there. I got tossed bigtime after having been out for about 30 minutes, held down and caught up in the washing machine, scraping for the surface. Welcome back to surfing. After that, I decided to paddle in. I was not really tired yet, but I was pretty shaken up so decided to call it quits. Didn’t catch a wave. Woo hoo.

Sunday was a bit better. The waves were smaller and I paddled comfortably for about 1 hour. I duck dove cleanly under about half a dozen waves, no problem, no pain. And yes, I actually got two waves. Not impressive in any sense, but I was up and riding.  The weather was so amazing that if felt awesome just to be back in the line up.  Can’t wait to get my confidence back and really start surfing.


3 Responses to Went “surfing” this weekend!

  1. gracefullee says:

    Welcome back! You know how surfing is… just time in the water and mind games. You’ll be FINE.

  2. Thank you. Yes, the shoulder is fine. It’s the “head” that needs some attention now! I do know how to surf, really, I do…at least that’s what I keep telling myself.

  3. Christian says:

    So great to have finally met you. 🙂 Surfing is stupid hard. It seems like even a few days out of the water causes one to feel kooky.
    That was a tough day to get back into it. I have some footage of people on the north and south side getting drilled.


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