December 24, 2007
An amazing morning on the eve of Christmas. I woke up and looked out at a phenomenal morning at the beach, and was a little bummed that I couldn’t go for my traditional Christmas morning surf tomorrow. However, when I walked down to the beach and saw the surf, or rather, the lack thereof, I didn’t feel so bad. It was breaking 1 – 2 foot right on shore. Gorgeous weather, but no one out. I heard that El Porto was pretty good, but super crowded. Anyhow, I knew there would be no Christmas surf for me this year in any event…
I am contemplating a Christmas skate though. The sensible, mature adult in me is saying don’t do it. Don’t risk it. If you hit one little pebble and get tossed, my shoulder is f’d in such a big way. But the impetuous teenager in me is saying just go for it. You won’t fall. Don’t be a wuss. Throw the iPod on and take that Christmas skate along the boardwalk. It will be awesome. Right now, the teenager is winning the argument in my head…
Had an email from Annika in England. She said it was cold but she’s having a blast. They haven’t yet made it down to Cornwall to surf, so don’t have any surfy blog news on that front yet.
With that, I wish all a Merry Christmas!
December 20, 2007
Very fun looking. 2 – 4 foot with decent shape. A little soft on the high tide, but picks up speed on the inside.
December 19, 2007
Annika got me a goldfish for Christmas.
See, she knows that I really want a dog but can’t have one due to my current living situation, so instead, she got me a goldfish!
But not just any goldfish…she got me a betta – a fighting goldfish from Thailand. We named him Reggie. I set him up in his new little bowl facing out of the window in my livingroom, and then this morning when I walked in the room, he was gazing out the window, but when he sensed me in the room, he spun around in his bowl to check me out. He’s super smart. I can tell. In case you didn’t know, Annika rocks!
Annika is leaving tomorrow to go on a surf trip. Yep, she’s going to….England to surf for two weeks. Actually, she’s going over to visit British Paul and they really are going to surf in Cornwall. Why not? All a girl needs is a 5/3mm wetsuit, gloves, booties, a hoodie, and she’s good to go. Surfing England in the middle of winter = priceless. I’m a little jealous and pouty that she is leaving me for two weeks, but she is in good hands over there with BP, so I have given my blessing and am just going to have to make due without here. She’s promised to send pictures so stay tuned. Blog posts from Cornwall on their way shortly.
December 17, 2007
I know I must be feeling better about my recovery because I’ve started to contemplate buying myself a new board once I am fully recovered. I haven’t wanted a new board in over a year. Since the injury occurred, I was surfing so infrequently because of the pain that I didn’t have any desire or interest in switching up boards. I was only surfing about once a week (down from 4 -5 days a week), so when I did paddle out, I wanted to go with a board that was tried and true. I had one that caught waves in almost all conditions, was floaty enough for my weakass paddling, yet was maneuverable enough to get some turns in. I wasn’t interested in any of my other boards. I didn’t want to have to mess with figuring out the sweet spot, where to take off from, how the board held in a bottom turn, etc. Just let me catch a couple of waves. That’s it. So as I looked at all of the various surfboards littered about my apartment, I asked, what’s the point of a quiver?
I am now contemplating wanting a new board. It’s been two weeks since surgery and I am still a ways away (do those two aways go together?), from even being able to paddle out let alone being back to pre-injury strength and ability. Yet, I want a new board. It’s going to be like a post-surgery present to myself. I deserve it, dammit. So here is what I’m contemplating:
a.) a 6’3″ Guy Okazaki alien model with a quad fin set up and a swallow tail (his recommendation to me), or;
b.) a 6’4″ Firewire Alternator with the parabolic rails on the side.
I don’t know why, but I’m dying to try one of these firewire surfboards. I hear they are amazing, catch everything and are super snappy.
I’m not going to rush into anything just yet. Let’s see how I feel once I am back in the water. I have enough boards already to hold me over for the first several months once I am back in the water, but I have the itch to buy that new board. That’s a good sign…
December 14, 2007
Berlin’s biggest star. My new favorite site. Learning to stand on his back legs after practicing for months. Stop it!
December 12, 2007
Had my first PT session last night post surgery and despite the discomfort, it was fantastic. I don’t know what the numbers mean exactly, but in measuring my range of motion at the beginning of the session and again at the end, I increased my range by 20 degrees! This morning, I could actually raise my right hand to my head and use it to wash and brush my hair. These activities have been a strictly one-handed task until this morning. Progress!
Before PT last night, I was finding it very difficult to imagine surfing again within 8 – 10 weeks. Now, I can see that it might be possible. Don’t get me wrong, there is still quite a bit of pain and I am still not using the right arm much, but it is better.
December 10, 2007
Let it snow, let it snow, let it snow. Turning to thoughts on snow what with our first real snowfall of the season. Chances are I will be cleared to snowboard before I am cleared to surf, so let’s talk snow this morning. Alot of people approach snowboarding much like skating – it’s all about jibs and jumps and 540 Rodeos (I don’t even know what a “rodeo” is but I know it involves spinning around in the air). Me? I tend to snowboard as if I am “surfing” the mountain. I like to hug the side of the run and carve up and down the slope as if I were carving the face of a wave – little sliders and cutbacks, 180 turns to fakie side and back – it’s all about putting sexy back into snowboarding. My big air move is a little inside rail grab off of the little jumps.
I’ll sit at the main lodge and watch the “kids” launch themselves off of the massive jumps in the Thunderbound park up at Mammoth and think to myself I do not have any desire to do that. I am far happier finding little walls to cruise up and down, or trees to duck under as if I were getting a little cover up, than risking arms and legs off the jumps.
Old school….that’s the way I like it.