Surfing over Thanksgiving

One of my all time favorite things to do in the whole wide world is to surf on Thanksgiving (and Christmas) morning. I know I won’t be surfing on this year’s Christmas morning (maybe going for a skate…), but I will try to surf this Thanksgiving despite the total lack of a functioning right arm. I just need to paddle out, and catch one wave, give thanks to the gods, (where did that come from?), and then head over to the family for the usual.

Annika has talked me into heading up north for the weekend to get out of town and keep me from going totally insane, which I’m apt to do. She wants to paddle out at Ocean Beach. OB is a heavy (sharky) break with a long paddle-out. I don’t think I’m up for it, but as one stalker-friend advised, I’ll make that a gametime decision.

Happy Thanksgiving.


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