October 29, 2007
Had a birthday surf with Annika on Sunday. She was on a new (shorter) board. It was really small but we were able to catch some waves and had a ton of fun. At first I was catching most of the waves as she was trying to get used to her new board. Then she started getting all of the waves and I didn’t mind because, after all, it was her birthday. But…after watching her catch five or six waves in a row, I got pouty, so decided to drop in on her when she started paddling for a wave I wanted. Even though she was on a shorter board, it was still bigger than mine, so she caught the wave first, but I popped up in front of her anyhow. We almost collided, but since the wave was only about 1 foot, it was not critical (I wouldn’t have done that on a real wave). It was actually hilarious. I took her out to breakfast to make it up to her 🙂
Saturday was a bit bigger, but not by much. Had several really fun waves, though. Had a decent right where a guy dropped in on me. I thought he saw me and was going to kick out, but he didn’t, so I ended up having to push him from behind off the wave…old school style like Miki Dora. I didn’t mean to be so aggressive about it, but he was right in front of me and I just instinctively gave him a big shove. The boys on the pier watching got a big laugh out of it. Thankfully, he didn’t get mad, and apologized to me for dropping in. Hey, it’s Venice.
October 26, 2007
Good. Go. Now.
Super fun-looking, 2 – 4 with bigger sets. Good shape. No wind.
Wind should be good all day.
October 23, 2007
Sunday surf buddies….
Surf this past weekend was like a mixed bag of nuts. Saturday was super fun, peaky windswell waves. Very consistent. Good shape. Good size. Good fun. Sunday, on the other hand, was mostly walled up, not very good, and really, really cold.
This wave from Sunday morning was one of the few with a corner. My new motto…surf til surgery. Think I might have a t-shirt printed up.
October 19, 2007
Last year when I injured my rotator cuff surfing, I dreaded the idea of surgery. I just did not want to accept the simplest solution. Open it up and fix it. So I didn’t, despite the fact that I heard endlessly from other surfers who have had shoulder surgery and are now surfing pain-free. I have been surfing (and often NOT surfing) with pain for over a year. I have tried physical therapy, acupuncture (alot of acupuncture), chiropractic manipulation, herbs and supplements, deep tissue massage, and of course lots of pain pills and alcohol. Nothing worked. I said, nothing worked! I’m sick of it, and sick of hearing myself complain about the pain.
So surgery it is. I’m doing it. I’m going to let them cut me open and fix it, dammit, once and for all. And now that I’ve decided to go this route, and heard the shoulder doctor (another doctor – a highly renowned-sports-medicine-orthopedic-surgeon-to-the-stars doctor), tell me that surgery is the only way I will be able to surf again pain-free, I am actually very excited by the idea of it. I can’t even imagine what it will be like to be able to duckdive without pain and get my board deep enough under the bigger waves so as not get tossed, to be able to actually pop-up instead of crawl-up, to be able to surf for more than 30 minutes at a time, to be able to surf more than two consecutive days in a row. Wow. I am giddy with excitement at the thought of surgery.
October 18, 2007
Thought I would share some of my blog stats. The average daily unique views for the site are between 15 – 20, at least I think they are unique. It could be the same person clicking back to the site over and over to use my blogroll to click to other sites. Come to think of it, at least a couple of those views are ME rereading my own posts because I like to go back and read what I wrote previously to see if I still like the post. Sometimes I do and sometimes I don’t. For instance, my Blog Action Day post in hindsight was a little abrupt and angry sounding. There’s nothing like dropping the f-bomb when writing, and I love that I can write whatever the fuck I want on my own fucking site. Still, it probably would have been a better “call to action” if I had approached the environmental thing with a little more compassion. I was still angry from the previous day, however, when I walked out to surf and there was two feet of trash lining the shoreline. But I digress. Clearly with only 15 or so views each day, I am not ready to quit my day-job and try to make a living at this blogging thing.
My best day ever peaked at 64 views back in September. I didn’t post about any hot topic in that period, so I figure it must have been when someone with a much more popular blog site added me to their blogroll, and a bunch of new readers clicked on my link to check me out. Clearly they weren’t very impressed with what they read because that number was an anomaly, and I haven’t been even close to 64 views ever since. I suppose if I started to blog about all things Apple, like the new Leopard operating system about to launch, I would be much more popular. Or I hear that blogs about motherhood and parenting are very popular, but since I don’t have any kids, I don’t think I would be a very authentic voice to be writing about that.
And who is sending me the most love? I receive the most referrals from Surf and the Fury. Surfsister has been at this for awhile now. Kudos to her and thank you for adding me to your blogroll.
Paddled out for a quicky session this morning before work. Waves were small windswell, but it didn’t suck. In fact, I had several fun waves with shoulders to work. Yes, it is cold. No, I’m not yet wearing booties.
October 17, 2007
With the dawn patrol hour now clocking in at about 7:00 am, how in the world do you manage to get up early enough to get in a pre-work surf session these days (assuming that, as most, you have to be a work at 9:00 am)? Even with living one block from the beach, I am finding it nearly impossible to get up and motivate for that quicky one-hour session. Especially since the early morning air temps are now hovering in the low to mid 50’s. Dark, cold and drizzly. No thanks. That means I am pretty much only a weekend warrior cuz I guess I’m just a wuss. Which is ashame, though, because surf in Venice is generally pretty good this time of year. Venice likes the NW swells and morning high tides.
Dawn patrol in the summer is optimal with early morning daylight and warmer air temps. Problem is that Venice is generally terrible in the summer months. Venice does not like SW swells and lower tides. Sure, living only one block from the beach is great, but the surf that is accessible to me before work sucks. So once again, I am relegated to being a weekend warrior when I can drive to points north or south where the surf is better.
So I ask, is dawn patrol really ever worth it? Is living one block from the beach in Venice really worth it? Well, of course, the answer is yes, but still, wouldn’t it be great if I lived one block from say, Huntington or Grandview down in Leucadia? Or better yet, wouldn’t it be great if I didn’t have to go to work at 9:00 am?
Surf was small but fun-looking this morning. Check out Yo Venice! for my report.
October 16, 2007
Received a very thoughtful yet random email in my myspace account (which I never use anymore), from someone who remembers me as his first kiss:
Sitting around the dining room table tonight,
(which was really the other night
cause this is now a few dayze later)
one of my sons asked:
Who was your first kiss?
Can’t remember how old I was.
Young. For sure. 9? 8?
But the name is stuck in my head:
If there’s a blemish to the first kiss story
it is this:
A guy name Scott Edworthy
kissed you before (or after).
Still, it counts as a first kiss
and warrants a random hello
many, many years later.
He went on to write about some other very beautiful memories from our summers spent up in Vancouver, Canada. Apparently, however, I was kissing more than one boy under the pier that summer! Still, that he remembered me at all and then took the time to track me down is touching. While I do vaguely remember him, I have to say that I remember the other boy, Scott Edworthy, much better. Isn’t it always that way though…