I’m back…well, sort of.

I paddled out again today for another mini micro session, and actually was able to surf. The conditions still weren’t very good – about 1 – 3 foot mostly closed out and doubled up. But in my short session, I snagged a couple of ok waves with shoulders, and was able to pop up quickly, make a couple of turns, hit the lip and stay on my board. Compared to my last couple of go-outs, it felt really good. I made myself get out of the water after about 40 minutes because I knew my shoulder was about one more wave away from giving out. So far, as long as I only surf for about 30 – 40 minutes, my shoulder has held up. It doesn’t feel great, but it isn’t killing me. I even did a real (sexy) duck dive under a “set” wave that was about a 3 footer. Can’t imagine what I would do if it were actually breaking with any size, but hey, I’m glad it’s not.

I remember years ago when I was learning to surf, I’d be driving down to El Porto praying that it would be small. I’d be in my car saying “please be small, please be small, please be small.” As I rounded the corner at the gas station heading into the lot, I’d make a quick assessment as to whether I’d be pitching endlessly over the falls or if I had a fighting chance of actually standing up and riding straight (I wasn’t really angling down the face at that point). Then, of course, as I got better, as do most surfers, my mantra switched to “please let there be swell, please let there be swell, please let there be swell.” Well for now, I’m back to please let it be small. Humbling but my reality. Oh well…


2 Responses to I’m back…well, sort of.

  1. marina says:


    I’ve been reading and enjoying your blog for sometime now. I love how your posts truly connect to your readership. I’m interested to have an interactive/link-up/post with you. I’ve written a book that you and your audience might enjoy and am preparing to do a virtual blog tour and would love an opportunity to participate on your blog.

    However, my young adult book ‘Turtle Feet, Surfer’s Beat’ is only a small part of what I’m trying to build. The book itself revolves around a typical suburban teen girl, Penelope, from the States that is forced to go to Costa Rica with her parents for her father’s job assignment. Involuntarily, her parents sign up Penelope and her little brother to spend two weeks at the Leatherback turtle biological station (for ‘their own good’). Penelope, obviously isn’t pleased but forgives the horrid accommodations and the never ending bug brigade as she sees the turtle and instantly pledges to do all she can to help it from extinction. But hang ten, dudes! Penelope is about to get help. One lonely night, as she’s patrolling the beach for turtle poachers she stumbles and falls directly into the arms of the local surf champ. Together they dive into the world of surfing and marine preservation.

    These days, we are constantly facing global problems that seem to be getting worse and worse daily. Living in Costa Rica, I’ve been inspired to take action. I started by writing this book and am now developing a community of teens, surfers, artists, scientist, and everyone else who is interested in working together to have fun while helping out.

    I would love to join forces with you and your readers in a fun, interactive way. I will gladly write a post about your blog (and whatever you will like to plug:), plus a link with your blog to my website and blog, in return for a review of my book and/or small interview.

    Looking forward to hearing from you soon. I can get a copy out to you ASAP.
    Thanks so much,

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