A big congratulations to Guy O. and Alix G. who are getting married this weekend in Hawaii. Sorry I couldn’t attend the wedding but you guys are awesome and I am sooo happy for you! Oh and, by the way, they met at a Rock’er party. As Paris Hilton says, “hot”.
So after hours of insomnia (woke up about 3 am) I decided to head down to OP and paddle out about about 6:30 am. Didn’t know that the L.A. Triathlon Club meets down there for ocean swims on Wednesdays at 6:30 am? The parking lot was entirely full with very fit men and women clad in skin tight shiny triathelete wetsuits. Wow. Kind of nice eye candy… But, no surfers in sight. Hmmm. I decided to just paddle out to work on the old rotator cuff, and there was good reason there were no surfers in sight. It sucked! It wasn’t even surfable. 2 footers dumping onshore in 3 inches of water. God, I can’t wait to get down to Cabo for a real wave with a real shoulder to make some real turns on. Matt over at Venice Surf Reporter called it a 2. I called it lame sauce!
Ok. I did it. I spontaneously booked a trip down to Cabo for five days in September. I am going to meet up with surf buddies Mark and Tattoo John who are making the drive all the way down with a stopover at Scorpion Bay. Fuck it that my shoulder is a wreck and I can barely paddle let alone pop up. I want some warm water and cold margaritas. I have three weeks to get back into shape. That’s my plan. Build up strength while not re-injuring myself. We’ll see. Hopefully, this year I won’t break down and cry on the beach like I did last year.
I paddled out again today for another mini micro session, and actually was able to surf. The conditions still weren’t very good – about 1 – 3 foot mostly closed out and doubled up. But in my short session, I snagged a couple of ok waves with shoulders, and was able to pop up quickly, make a couple of turns, hit the lip and stay on my board. Compared to my last couple of go-outs, it felt really good. I made myself get out of the water after about 40 minutes because I knew my shoulder was about one more wave away from giving out. So far, as long as I only surf for about 30 – 40 minutes, my shoulder has held up. It doesn’t feel great, but it isn’t killing me. I even did a real (sexy) duck dive under a “set” wave that was about a 3 footer. Can’t imagine what I would do if it were actually breaking with any size, but hey, I’m glad it’s not.
I remember years ago when I was learning to surf, I’d be driving down to El Porto praying that it would be small. I’d be in my car saying “please be small, please be small, please be small.” As I rounded the corner at the gas station heading into the lot, I’d make a quick assessment as to whether I’d be pitching endlessly over the falls or if I had a fighting chance of actually standing up and riding straight (I wasn’t really angling down the face at that point). Then, of course, as I got better, as do most surfers, my mantra switched to “please let there be swell, please let there be swell, please let there be swell.” Well for now, I’m back to please let it be small. Humbling but my reality. Oh well…
So I finally paddled out this past week for the first time in three months. Ok, not three months; two months and three weeks…eleven weeks to be exact. My rotator cuff tendinitis doesn’t feel 100% better, but enough time has gone by where if feels ok and I wanted to try to paddle again. I tried to be very pragmatic about it and only paddled out for 30 minutes, making sure I got out of the water before I experienced any real pain or fatigue. And for the record, surfing is not like riding a bike. It did not come back to me after a couple of waves. The first two waves I paddled for I barely got to my feet and then immediately fell. The next two waves I caught I kind of stood up, but my feet were in the wrong place and the wave closed out before I could make any kind of adjustment. Then on the last wave, I actually sort of made a bottom turn and hit the lip before falling off. There. Like I said, only kind of surfing.
The good news is that my shoulder felt ok – weak and awkward, but not painful. The bad news is that the water was friggin cold. What’s up with that? It’s been warm for two months and everyone has been trunking it or wearing just a rash guard or spring suit, and when I finally paddle out, the water temp has dropped overnight and it’s cold. Typical. Annika said she saw me catch several waves. That’s debatable. Greg asked me at one point how it felt, and I said I didn’t know what hurt worse; my shoulder or my ego. Not fun falling on your face when you know what kind of surfer you are under normal conditions.
Think I’m going to paddle out again before work one day this week to give it another shot. 30 minutes at a time until I feel stronger.
Molly (and Erin) are back at the beach for more fun and surf…
Molly’s video on youtube has had over 1,000 views since I posted it about a month ago. Ok, not exactly a youtube phenom, but still, she’s pretty hot these days, so we took another trip to dog beach this weekend for an encore performance. She performed beautifully with lots of swimming, chasing, jumping and frolicking. Video to follow shortly…Oh, and the surf was actually pretty fun looking and Erin caught a few. Unfortunately, I haven’t yet figured out how to watch Molly and film Erin at the same time, so I didn’t get any of Erin’s waves on tape.