Today I wanted to surf!

I have to stay out of the water for 8 – 12 weeks because of a chronic shoulder injury that won’t heal. I’ve been out of the water for about three weeks and up until this morning, wasn’t really missing it too much. But today was so beautiful and the water so warm and clear looking, I wanted to paddle out so bad. The surf wasn’t that great: 1 – 3 ft. with ok shape, but with the right board (say a fatty old school fish), it would have been soooo fun.

Check out the pictures and full report at Venice Surf Report

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