Surfing Blacks

Went down to San Diego and surfed Blacks with a couple of friends on Wednesday.  What a fantastic wave.  As my friend says, “perfect barrels guaranteed.”  When we first paddled out, it was a super high tide and the waves were on the soft side, but as the tide dropped, they got better and better.  About two hours into the session, when my arms were starting to ache, the waves got great….blacks produces perfect lefts wave after wave.   And there were relatively few people out…granted it’s a ten minute hike down a steep cliff to get to the beach which weeds out alot of people, but still, if that wave existed in L.A., there would always be at least 100 people on it.   L.A. surfing, like its traffic, is hectic and agro.  Back to Venice tomorrow morning.  hurumph.


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