Surfing and Christmas

I have to say that no matter the conditions, surfing on Christmas morning is by far the best christmas present a girl could ever ask for…at least a surfer girl like me.  I paddled out in Venice on Christmas morning with about ten other friends and we had such an amazing time.  Ok, the surf wasn’t very good…in fact, it was actually pretty crappy.  Maybe two to three foot and mostly closing out.  But the sun was out, everyone was in a great mood, and we were surfing… and it was Christmas.  Freakin’ rad.  While so many were monitoring screaming, frantic kids ripping apart boxes and bags, we were out in the water, with dolphins – yes, there were dolphins swimming with us – with no stress, no hype, no disappointments; that stuff would come later.  We were just doing what we love most with others who share our passion, our obsession.  For a surfer, surfing on Christmas morning is the best present ever.  Even if it was in Venice…the crappiest surf in California.  Gotta love Venice.


One Response to Surfing and Christmas

  1. That is way cool…I’m glad you could spend time out there. Dolphins and everything!

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